grinnell glacier from above glacier national park © Shawn Coggins www.glacierhikers.com

May 17, 2012
GNP plow crews are five weeks ahead of 2011 plowing on the west side of GTSR

May 4, 2012
Going To The Sun Road open to Avalanche.
April 2, 2012 spring plowing to Logan Pass started.
As of April 11, 2012 The Going-to-the-Sun Road: Open 5 miles to Rising Sun, then
closed to vehicles at Rising Sun

"On April 6th, 2012,  the Hudson Bay Road Crew worked on the Swiftcurrent complex and other plowing in the Many Glacier Valley.
Road crews encountered drifts
up to 20 plus feet deep."
NPS Plow Report

May 7, 2012 Snotel reports show a 12% increase
in snow water equivalent.
April 30, 2012 Snotel reports show a drop in snowpack with the average at 104% for this date. April 26, 2012 Snotel Reports show a continued climb in the western snowpack, now at 115% of the 30 year average for this date.

March 26, 2012, Snotel Reports, continue to rise since the arrival of spring Glacier Park west side is 108% with the east side on the 'low' side at 103% of the 30 year average for this date. As of March 5, 2012 snowpack in Glacier Park finally made it to 100%.
February 21, 2012 snowpack in Glacier Park is at 95% of average an increase of 12% over the preceding 7 days.



Logan Pass opened on July 13, 2011
The Going To The Sun Road closed to through traffic at midnight 9-18-11.

Glacier National Park Going To The Sun Road
plowing started April 1, 2011
~ plows reached Logan Pass on 6-28-11
Logan Pass closed from west side as of 9-19-11.

Information concerning
2011 and 2010 is now located
here

The Great Northern built its line (railroad) over Marias Pass in 1891.
It was not until 1930 that a highway was constructed over it.
Before then, motorists on U.S. Highway 2 had to load their automobiles onto railroad cars at East or West Glacier to ship them around the southern boundary of Glacier National Park on the Great Northern    Info from MDOT

Recent Events and Updates as of May 18, 2012

Since July 4th of 2011 this site has had visitors from 112 countries.
& (My visitor data for the previous four years is not as easy to track.)

NPS Trail Report for May 15, 2012
Apgar Lookout Trail
6 new trees have come down since earlier clearing operation.
All in first 1.5 miles of trail.   HAZARD FROM '03 FIRES

May 16, 2012
Logging Lake Trail cleared as of May 16, 2012
Temperatures have been from 10 to 15 degrees above average for this time of year. Creeks and rivers are rising, flood potential if there is heavy rain.
West side plowing continues to be one month ahead of 2011.

May 15, 2012
West Lakeshore Trail to back country campground. Regrowth in deciduous area of Roberts Fire of 2003 along Lake McDonald is extensive with new trees from 3 feet to 10 feet tall. The cedar forest on the other hand has almost no tree regrowth just lots of shrubbery choking the trail. Twelve trees across trail despite trail being cleared last week. The last two were the only tricky ones.

May 12, 2012
Went to presentation at the Montana House, located next to the Apgar Visitor Center, given by Rachel Potter on Botanical Expeditions in Glacier National Park during 1909 and 1910.

May 11, 2012
Huckleberry Lookout Trail was cleared by NPS trail crew today, they were leaving when I got a late start.
Wildflowers blooming on Huckleberry Lookout Trail, Trilliums, Glacier Lilies, and among others. Did not make it to the snow line, trail in good shape, slightly muddy in spots. North facing switch backs have deep snow cover. Great views once you get up in elevation. Did not make it to the ridge.
Apgar Lookout Trail was cleared on May 9, 2012 also still has snow cover from near the top.
Quarter Circle Bridge is high and dry this year.
Should be a good wildflower year.
Temperatures were in the low twenties overnight in the valleys.
Well unless GNP has a severe weather event, or there is some hidden massive road damage The Going To The Sun Road won't have a late opening this year. Plows continue to be one month ahead of were they were in 2011. Valley level snow in Lake McDonald is essentially gone. Lower trails on the west side are drying out fast.
Inside North Fork Road: OPEN to vehicles from Polebridge to Logging Creek, then closed to vehicles between Logging Creek and Fish Creek
Bowman Road: OPEN to vehicles
Kintla Road: OPEN to vehicles
Chief Mountain: OPEN to vehicles to border.
No entry into Canada until May 15.
Kintla and Bowman Campground open in primitive state. (no water) THURSDAY MAY 10TH: Hiker/Biker Access is at Claude's Corner, approximately 5.5 miles past the Avalanche vehicle closure.
Fridays through Sundays, the hiker/biker closure will be at Bird Woman Falls Overlook.

May 9, 2012
Avalanche Trail is 99% snow free and 99% dry. There was a swan on the lake on May 9, 2012 first one I've seen in twenty two years of hiking this trail!
Sprague creek Campground opened.

May 8, 2012
The GNP plow crews continue their assault on the GTSR and are at Big Bend on the west side of the park. The plow crews did not reach this point until June 8, 2011. Be aware that spring snow, and wet weather have as much effect on the opening date of Logan Pass as winter snow depth at this point in the plowing. Last week the snow pack went up 15% from the previous week and is still above average for this date.
The highway repair work contract prevents the Going To The Sun Road opening before June 15, 2012 this year.

May 6, 2012
Lots of wildlife in Many Glacier.
Iceberg Lake Trail closed due to bear.
Less snow then same date 2008 in Many Glacier.
Two Medicine Lake minor ice on the lake compared to last year with the whole lake frozen nearly a month later. Highway 49 between Two Medicine and East Glacier not open yet. So it's the long way to Browning then East Glacier to get to Many Glacier. All the paved roads clear of snow. The campgrounds in Two Medicine and Many Glacier still filled with snow. Swiftcurrent Motor Inn has started their annual spring clean up.
Many Glacier has large areas of bare ground while in Two Medicine the only bare areas are plowed paved roads.
No wildflowers yet.

May 4, 2012
OK my guess from prior years is that the GTSR openings won't change much except on the east side when it will move to Jackson Glacier Overlook hopefully by Memorial Day.
The following status report is from GNP Plowing Info. Depending on weather will go to the east side to Two Medicine and Many Glacier as last trip was to East Glacier.
Hiker-Biker Access
West
Packers Roost Road (6 miles beyond Avalanche Creek)
Note: Construction crews are now working all weekends on the Going-to-the-Sun Road rehabilitation project, except Memorial Day Weekend.
This weekend and next weekend, the hiker-biker closure will be at Haystack Creek.
This upcoming Monday through Thursday,
there will be no hiker-biker access beyond Avalanche, until after 6 pm.
Hikers and bikers should always be on alert for construction hazards.

East
Jackson Glacier Overlook (13.5 miles west of St. Mary)
Vehicle Access
West
Going-to-the-Sun Road, west side: Open 16 miles from West Entrance to Avalanche Creek then closed to vehicles at Avalanche Creek
Quarter Circle Bridge Road: OPEN
North McDonald Road/Kelly Camp Road: OPEN to vehicles
Packers Roost Road: CLOSED to vehicles
Camas Road: OPEN to vehicles
Bowman Road: CLOSED to vehicles
Kintla Road: OPEN to vehicles for 6 miles, then closed at Big Prairie
Inside North Fork Road: CLOSED to vehicles
East
Going-to-the-Sun Road: Open 5.5 miles to Rising Sun, then closed to vehicles at Rising Sun
Many Glacier: OPEN to vehicles
Two Medicine: OPEN to vehicles
Chief Mountain: CLOSED to vehicles
Cut Bank: CLOSED to vehicles

May 3, 2012
East Side plow crews clearing out Siyeh Bend
Many Glacier: OPEN to vehicles
Two Medicine: OPEN to vehicles

Hiker-Biker Access
West
Packers Roost Road(6 miles beyond Avalanche Creek)
East
Jackson Glacier Overlook (13.5 miles west of St. Mary)

April 30, 2012
Glacier Park posted updated schedule for campgrounds.
Nearly all are for much earlier openings then last year.

April 27, 2012
On April 27th, 2012, the Hudson Bay Road Crew will clear snow from Dead Horse Point towards Sun Point (8.5 miles east of Logan Pass).
Hiker-Biker Access West Packers Roost Road(11.5 miles beyond the Lake McDonald Lodge)

April 27, 2012
South Boundary Trail bridge installed.
April 26, 2012
HIker/Biker access to Going To The Sun Road
On the West Side, Hiker/Biker access is to Avalanche Exhibit, approximately 7.5 miles from the Lake McDonald Gate - while the road crew is working. On the weekend, there are no restrictions on the West Side for Hiker/Biker access. On the east side there are no Hiker/Biker restrictions. NPS as of 4-26-12

April 25, 2012 when the plowing will be complete is now more dependent on spring weather conditions then on winter snowfall. Unusually high spring temperatures combined with heavy rainfall pose a continued risk of spring flooding and large avalanches.

Photo to right taken by NPS snow survey crew
along The Going To The Sun Road on April 12, 2012
There is a larger copy of this on my wildlife page.


wolf Glacier National Park  glacierhikers.com

April 22, 2012
Tick season has started in Glacier National Park
Hiked South Boundary Trail encountered more ticks on that hike then I have in my entire life.

April 21, 2012
"Entrance fees to Glacier National Park and the nearly 400 National Park Sites across the country will be waived during National Park Week, April 21-29.

April 20, 2012
West Side Hiker Biker
There will be no hiker/biker restrictions on Saturday and Sunday.

April 19, 2012
At this point in time the NPS west side snow plow crew is about 2 weeks ahead of where they were last year.

April 18, 2012
Hiker-Biker Access
West
Avalanche Creek (5.5 miles beyond the Lake McDonald Lodge)
East
No restrictions on hiker/biker access on the Going-to-the-Sun Road (from Rising Sun vehicle closure).

Updated April 27, 2012
Plowing to restart on east side of The Going To The Sun Road so the snow shown below will be gone.

GTSR on east side snow covered after road closure so you can hike, or snowshoe but biking would be pretty tricky.

road closed GTSR


The Two Medicine Road is now open for vehicles to Running Eagle Falls, with hiker/biker access beyond the closure to where the road crew is working (approximately 1 mile).

April 16, 2012
West
Going-to-the-Sun Road, west side: Open 11 miles from West Entrance to Lake McDonald Lodge
then closed to vehicles at Lake McDonald Lodge
Quarter Circle Bridge Road: CLOSED to vehicles
North McDonald Road/Kelly Camp Road: CLOSED to vehicles
Packers Roost Road: CLOSED to vehicles
Camas Road: OPEN to vehicles
Bowman Road: CLOSED to vehicles
Kintla Road: OPEN to vehicles for 6 miles, then closed at Big Prairie
Inside North Fork Road: CLOSED to vehicles

East
The Two Medicine Road is currently closed at Running Eagle Falls due to plowing. Hiker/biker beyond Running Eagle Falls gate will be where ever the road crew is not working. The road crew will have portable signs they will put up showing where they are currently plowing.
Going-to-the-Sun Road: Open 5 miles to Rising Sun,
then closed to vehicles at Rising Sun Many Glacier: CLOSED to vehicles at Boundary Gate from NPS plow report


April 14, 2012
The Going To The Sun Road on the east side is open from East Glacier to Rising Sun to hikers, bikers and cars. Be aware that except for the St Mary Campground nothing else is open in Glacier National Park on the east side. The only toilets (pit) are located in St Mary Campground.

The Going To The Sun Road was clear of snow as of April 14, 2012. St Mary Lake remains frozen along this five miles section of GTSR. If your biking be prepared for the possibility of major headwinds. On Saturday April 4, 2012 I saw five cars on the road one of which was a park ranger. There were no other bikers. The road is gated just past the boat launch for Glacier Boat and the GTSR is snow covered from that point on. Two Dog Flat is clear of all snow and is posted as no access mainly for the resident elk herd, which was not visible today.

It was a great blue sky day at the start of the ride but a storm front was rapidly approaching the St Mary Valley on the return ride.

Weather permitting will hike The South Boundary Trail some time next week. The following week hope to circumnavigate Lake McDonald - hike/bike - which will be about 22 miles.

April 12, 2012
It's April and it's raining. In northwest Montana when you want to get out in the spring you go when it's sunny no matter what day of the week it is otherwise your going to get wet.

April 11, 2012
According to NPS Plow Reports "On the West Side, Hiker/Biker access is to Avalanche, approximately 4.5 miles from the Lake McDonald Gate - while the road crew is working. On the weekend, there are no restrictions on the West Side for Hiker/Biker access.

April 6, 2012
On the east side the Hiker/Biker access is located approximately 1/2 mile beyond the Mile and a Half Gate due to wildlife activity - everyday." Which means you can make it to Red Rock Falls if you have studded bike tires. Next week the park is scheduled to start removing the ice.

Plowing started on clearing the Going To The Sun Road of snow on April 2, 2012. At this point the road from McDonald Lodge towards Avalanche is now a nice sheet of ice, so bring your ice skates. Temperatures are supposed to be in the low 60's today, but that section of road is mostly in the shade so it will take a little time for the ice to melt. The parks large snowblower chained up and left the first stretch of the road to one of the parks road graders.

The Going To The Sun Road from Apgar to Lake McDonald Lodge is free of ice and snow with relatively small plow berms on the sides of the road as of 4-2-2012.
On the east side The Going-to-the-Sun Road: Open 5 miles to Rising Sun, then closed to vehicles at Rising Sun.
From NPS plowing report as of 4-3-2012 "The Hudson Bay Road Crew started plowing the Many Glacier Road from the dam into the valley. They encountered snow drifts of up to 10 feet. The weather was stormy, windy and cold."

The 2012 Vernal Equinox arrived accompanied by snow in Northwest Montana.

Well it took until the wild turkeys made their annual migration down my driveway before Glacier National Park snowpack levels reached 100% of the 30 year average snowfall.
Note: Even though snow accumulation is below average it is not any where close to being the least recorded snowfall winter since recordings began in 1979.

At this time last year Lake Mcdonald was frozen for miles, this year there is no ice on Lake McDonald.

It's late February and winter snow is finally starting to accumulate.
Snow levels in the Flathead River Basin are at 85% of average. Glacier Park feeds into this watershed as well as to Hudson Bay and the Gulf of Mexico. It is still too early to predict when Logan Pass will open but if I am reading gov speak correctly that won't be before June 15th of this year.

According to the Western Federal Lands Highway Department the construction zones for The Going To The Sun Highway for 2012 are from Avalanche to the Logan Gravel Pit and from Haystack Creek to Big Bend on the west side. From the map no construction is scheduled for the east side. The official plan is for construction at Avalanche to start in late March of this year. (if I'm reading gov speak correctly)
The winter of 2011/2012 continues on with brief transitory bits of winter weather in the lower elevations, followed by above freezing temperatures and rain.
Well winter like weather has finally arrived in Northwest Montana.

NPS press Release 1-15-2012
WEST GLACIER, MONT. – Glacier National Park, Flathead County Search and Rescue Mountain Rescue Team and Kalispell Regional Medical Center's A.L.E.R.T. Air Ambulance responded to and rescued a couple of cross-country skiers that were lost and stranded overnight in the North Fork area of Glacier National Park. Two individuals from Kalispell, a married couple, male age 46 and female age 39, sent a 911 message using a spot messenger device as they were lost and stranded in Glacier National Park. Flathead County Dispatch received the message at approximately 8 p.m. Saturday night indicating the message originated from a remote location approximately one mile north of the Akokala Creek Trail in the North Fork area of park, approximately six miles north of Polebridge. Park rangers were immediately notified and an incident team was organized. Due to bad weather, downed trees, difficult trail conditions, darkness and overall unsafe conditions for ground or aerial searches, it was determined that a response would need to take place early Sunday morning. Sunday morning park rangers and members of the county's rescue team began traveling to find the couple via snowshoes and cross-country skis. As weather conditions allowed, A.L.E.R.T. flew the area and were able to identify tracks. The helicopter landed briefly and dispatched two crew members on the ground. The crew members reached the couple after hiking about one half mile and treated them on the scene. The helicopter then returned as weather cleared and retrieved the couple. They were transported to a landing area near the Polebridge Mercantile where park rangers met them and transported them to the Polebridge Ranger Station. The couple returned home via their own vehicle at approximately 2 p.m. Sunday afternoon.

The info below is from Spot's Web page.
"pair your smartphone with SPOT Connect, and get connected to a global satellite network that lets you send messages and GPS coordinates from virtually anywhere on the planet. Update Twitter and Facebook. Send email and text messages. Request non-emergency help from professional service providers. And in the case of a critical emergency, send an SOS message requesting emergency assistance."

For the record 99% of Glacier National Park does not have cell phone coverage.

big horn Glacier National Park © Shawn Coggins glacierhikers.com

From news reports Alaska is getting all the snow this winter.

January 4, 2012
Montana temperatures were twice that of Florida!
On January 4, 2012 a large wildfire started outside of Browning with fire companies coming from as far as Columbia Falls. Unlike Texas wildfires in Montana during January are very, very rare. High winds in January on the east side of the park are a given and this fire was driven by winds gusting up to 70 mph. Over 16,000 acres were burned in this winter wildfire.


Snowy Owls, also known as, Arctic Owls are making their somewhat irregular migration, actually an irruption, to Northwest Montana. So far have seen the snowy owl on the last three trips, as is the norm the closest and most spectacular was when I was least prepared, didn't even have my camera but was using my daughter-in-laws new camera, different brand then mine, different controls and settings. Hopefully this Arctic Owl will stay around all winter.

Will be adding pics of these gorgeous owls soon!

Chilly weather to greet the new year temps in the low teens on the first of 2012.


Day Hikes

This guide is limited to day hikes that are a total of fifteen miles or less.

The Highline Trail and the Hidden Lake Overlook Trail start at 6,600 feet. Many of these day hikes traverse mountains essentially untouched by man, bring the proper rain gear. Plan your Glacier National Park lodging well in advance. on some of the trails in Glacier Park the trail itself is the only sign of civilization, other more popular trails are often crowded with a wide variety of 'hikers'.

Day Hikes in Glacier, available at the entrance stations to Glacier National Park, and the Visitor Centers in West Glacier and Saint Mary, lists sixty-one hikes that you can take without a passport. The 2011 version includes information on the free Glacier Park Shuttle, get a copy of the latest Glacier Shuttle Guide as the Glacier Shuttle has changed routes and hours of operation since it's opening. As long as the hike starts on the Going to the Sun Road and ends somewhere else on the Going to the Sun Road the Park Shuttle works great. It is truly a pleasure to use, but if your hike starts on the Going to the Sun Road and then ends in Many Glacier your options are much more limited.

Bighorn Ram

The thing I find most striking about the big horn sheep, aside from the horns on the rams
is their eyes. According to the Montana Field Guide ~ Big Horn Sheep are the 'Most sociable of Montana's big game species; herds segregate according to age and sex; ewes, lambs and yearling males band together; adult males band in herds spanning 2 or 3 year classes. . .'

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